The legendary Dempster
1800km gravel road, untouched nature, access to the Arctic Sea, an adventure - We drove it, the legendary Dempster Highway!
Fully loaded with diesel, water and food we drive from Tok (Alaska) via the Top of the World Highway back to the Yukon. Our first destination is Dawson City, where we want to make the last preparations and clarifications before the start on the Dempster Highway.This legendary road connects the Yukon with the Northwest Territories and is the only road in Canada that crosses the Arctic Circle. Since last year the end of the highway has been extended by 140km to Tuktoyaktuk at the Polar Sea. Of course we didn't want to miss this adventure. If we are already so high in the north, then even more so! We drive until it doesn't go any further, until the land stops and the sea begins....
...and here we are: In front of the sign announcing the entrance to the Dempster Highway and let us take a picture for a first souvenir photo. We are not alone. Jessica and Jorge, whom we already met in Whitehorse (www.liveworkwander.com) accompany us. We met them by chance the day before on the parking lot of the Visitor Center in Dawson, where they decided without further ado to drive with us (they were actually just about to start the engine and already drive off). It is just convenient for us to have some company, because we have been a little bit homesick lately.
Already on the first kilometres we dive into a watercolour in real size. It shows a wonderful landscape of gentle hills, striking mountain peaks, warm glowing autumn colours and infinite vastness. We drive through the Tombstone Territorial Park in the best weather and can't get enough of all the beauty of this spot. The Indian Summer has recently arrived. The spectrum of all tones from yellow to red is getting more intense from day to day.
While my passenger seat still feels like a massage chair for the first 200km, it gets really bumpy and uncomfortable for the first time in front of Eagle Plains. The road is covered with deep potholes, our cruising speed slows suddenly (😊) from 60kmh to 30-40kmh. Neck rigidity, headaches, cramped muscles are the result. A shower would be exactly the right thing. What a luck that we soon arrive in Eagle Plains (half way) and can refresh ourselves at the camping site there.
Rule no. 2: As long as the showers smell worse than ourselves, we don't need to wash. I spare you a more exact description of the circumstances now times...
Through four seasons (snow at the Arctic Circle, fog at the border to the Northwest Territories, April weather in Fort McPherson and sunshine in Inuvik) and over two ferries chugging us over the Peel River and the Mackenzie River, the way finally leads us to the Arctic Ocean and we arrive safely in Tuktoyaktuk. A wistful feeling comes over us. We are now at a place we had dreamed of for months, a cornerstone of our journey and at the end of the world. Unbelievable! A short time later we seal the end of this stage with a warming Tequila-Shot and a cooling down in the polar sea.
Since Jessica is suddenly not doing so well, we decide to go back to Dawson as soon as possible the next day. We manage the route in two days, but this demands all our remaining energy again. Due to persistent rainfall we just catch one of the last ferries back before the operation has to be stopped for an indefinite period due to high water. The road around Eagle Plains has meanwhile turned into a soapy slippery death track. We see some cars lying upside down in the ditch and almost become victims ourselves. Due to a necessary emergency braking Mathias loses control over the car and we slide away until we come to stand to the side of the road. The road drops down diagonally into a ditch and consists of thick mud away from the lanes. We can't get ourselves out of this precarious situation any more, not least because we've already got quite an imbalance and are threatening to tip over if we continue to accelerate.
Fortunately we are on our way with Jessica and Jorge, who can finally pull us out of the ditch.
Exhausted but happy we arrive back in Dawson City after one week and check in for two next ones on the campground in the center.
We have managed the Dempster! Or it us...?
P.S. Time needed for the car wash the next day: 5 hours
Our tips for the Dempster Highway:
- "Dempster Travelouge" before the start at the Yukon Visitor Center. It describes all stages of the route in detail
- If you are already in the Visitor Center, get information about the weather and the road conditions right away
- Plan an overnight stay in Tuktoyaktuk -> you can stay directly at the sea (cost: 20 CAD)
- If you have an extra tank and can transport enough diesel for the whole distance, it is worth to refuel in Tok (AK), because the prices for fuel in Alaska are much cheaper than in Canada.
- Carry at least 1 spare wheel and sufficient salvage material. Towing can be expensive.
- If possible, drive at least in pairs
- Even a small reduction of the air pressure in the tires helps to dampen the shocks and the vibration somewhat.
- The last week of August or the first week of September is the best time to experience the Indian Summer in full bloom.