Whales and more
As soon as we arrive on Vancouver Island, the bad weather catches up with us again. Our mood doesn't get any better as we hear that it has been extremely dry here all summer and that this week is the first time rain falls again. The locals are happy though ...
But we stay positive and book a whale watching tour in Campbell River on recommendation of Arnaud (the photographing Frenchman from Watson Lake). At the company "Go Wild Adventure Tours" we can reserve the last two places for the tomorrow's full day tour on a Zodiac shortly before closing time and even get a discount for it. What a stroke of luck!
The next day starts early for us, because without coffee we don't want to leave the house on this cool morning. Packed up thick we make our way to the pier where the guide and the rest of the passengers are already waiting. Together with ten other guests from all over the world we will spend the day on the sea and always look out for the most different sea creatures. It is even possible to see Grizzlys or Pumas on the coast (Vancouver Island has the highest density of wild Cougars or Mountain Lions, as Pumas are called here).
But we want to see orcas first and foremost. That's why we are here and have booked this tour. The chances to see the beautiful killer whales are higher in this place than anywhere else. We are hopeful as we hear that on the tours of the past days one of several families was spotted in the area.
After a short safety briefing we slip into our overalls, put on our caps and ski goggles and off we go! Che, our guide, announces the master plan for today: In the morning all our attention will be devoted to the search for orcas. There would only be a few specific places where they could be, and we would search those areas very carefully. This means that all other animals will be more or less left behind until we can put a checkmark behind the black and white giants. After that or at the latest after lunch we will look for other animals.
We shall be right.
As soon as we are out of the bay, we race ... no we fly with our Zodiac over the open sea. After a windy 20 minutes Che slows down the ride for the first time and stretches his index finger to one hundred. All heads turn ... "there ... seals" ... aaahh, oh no ...disappointed faces of the lively Englishmen to my right ... "just seals". But sweet seals! Relaxed they lie on the rock in front of us and look over to us with their cute little heads and big round eyes.
We only stop for a few photos before we continue.
The whole morning we sail different arms of the sea between the countless islands here. Unfortunately without success! The Orcas probably don't want to be seen today. Also the other tours, which are on the way today and with which Che is in radio contact, couldn't find them.
Killer whales are actually not whales at all, but the largest representatives of the family of dolphins. They are very intelligent and therefore simply disappear when they don't feel like annoying tourist boats. Sometimes, however, they are also ready to play and offer their observers an impressive show, for example by performing acrobatic jumps.
The morning is over and the small hunger is slowly becoming noticeable. Lunch is also included in the price of the full day tour. We moor at a small island and are served a very tasty lunch under a shelter. Che unpacks homemade wraps, cookies and peanut bars and for drinks there is hot chocolate, coffee or tea. Exactly the right thing, because half an hour before reaching the island the sky has emptied over us and I am frozen to the bone (despite clothing according to the onion principle).
After noon the tide comes, which in a short time pushes a lot of water into the narrow arms of the sea. Strudels form on the surface of the water, which impressively brings Che closer to us by driving our zodiac into the middle of a vortex and turning us, like on a carousel, once around our own axis.
The tide does not only create vortices, it also drives salmon from the sea to the coast. Some sea lions have been waiting for this the whole time. Sea lions, which were still lazy and wide on the cliffs before lunch, now move agilely through the currents and fish the salmon out in a targeted and skilful way. Some bald eagles also claim their share of the land of milk and honey.
Unfortunately, our fear has now become a fact. We won't see any Orcas today! The "Guarantee of Whale Sightings, otherwise You Get Your Money Back"-promise of the tour provider should not remain a tourist catch phrase, but will be taken seriously. Che changes our direction and sets course for the open sea. There are humpback whales at this time of year, which fill their bellies from the rich food supply.
And indeed ... already after a short time a first gently curved dark grey fin appears on the water surface. It appears and disappears several times until the whale takes a deep breath and sets off for a deep dive. He now shows his caudal fin, which rises steeply out of the water and disappears in slow motion into the depths of the ocean. From this point on, it usually takes 5-10 minutes for the whale to need air again and for the fin to appear on the surface.
15 minutes later ....
... still no fin. Somewhere it must be! Everybody is looking at the water with excitement, everyone in a different direction. It can't take much longer. And then suddenly ... out of nowhere a body of whale appears directly in front of our boat! In real size! Huge! The missing humpback has jumped out of the water and lets himself fall backwards with a loud bang on it. Water everywhere! As fast as he appeared, he disappeared again! We are stunned, can't believe what just happened!
The big-shot Briton proudly shows everyone his shot photo. What a pity that he didn't clean the water droplets on his lens before!
We fall into bed that night tired but happy. The next day we do a long hike in the rainforest of Campbell River to the Elk Falls and review the experience again.
The name says it all!